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Buy a Navitimer
Little guide and oppinions in order to help you to buy a Breitling Navitimer
I will start this page with the oppinion of a Breitling specialist : Doug (Moderator of the Breitling Forum on WatchUseek)
The Navitimer:
What a choice…. or is it?
All models in the Navitimer line, with the exception of the
Montbrillant, and Datora, are based, at least, cosmetically, on the 806 Navitimer
model of 1952, and the 809 model of 1962. The Montbrillant and Datora, perversely,
are based on the original Chronomat models of 1942 – 1962.
All have the original classic lines, of what is probably one of the most sucessful,
and most recogniseable (and most copied) chronographs of all time. The design
has been updated of course over the years, with different movements, a screw
back, slightly different dial cosmetics, a sapphire crystal, and finally,
and most importantly, a COSC Movement.
There have been one or two mistakes along the way… the design of the Cal 11 and 12 Chronomatic, and ‘frying pan’ models, which were put right, and the demise of the Lemania calibre Cosmonaute, which has disappeared for ever….. (This after the 806/809 models, was in my opinion, the best Navitimer ever! It will be sorely missed.)
Which one to buy?
There are two choices of movement… Valjoux 7750 (cal 13, 23,
19, 21,) and ETA 2892A2/DD, the remainder.
It has generally been a rule of thumb, that the vertical compax models, ie,
those with subdials at 6,9,and 12, had Valjoux 7750, and that the tri compax
models, 3,6 and 9, had the ETA movements….
Breitling Chronometrie have now modified the 7750, so that in the Old Navitimer iteration, the 7750 (cal B23) now also has the tri compax layout, and very nice it looks too.
So what is the difference? In everyday use, you are unlikely to notice any at all.
The ETA 2892 is used, essentially because being a modular unit
(an ordinary automatic date movement, to which different modules can be fitted)
it offers more possibilities for added complications, such as those found
in the Datora, and QP. It is also slightly smaller than the 7750, so it can
be used in slightly smaller cases….. Incidentally, you can always identify
a chronograph with the 2892 movement, because the winder is set about 3mm
further back than the pushpieces. The 2892A2 movement used by Breitling, has
Chronograph modules by Dubois and Depraz, and calendar modules produced in
house by Breitling chronometrie(formerly Kelek)
The Valjoux 7750, whilst capable of some minor modification, is an integrated
movement, and as such, is much harder to modify for the less common complications.
It is larger, and less complicated than the 2892A2DD, and can therefore be
considered slightly the more rugged and service tolerant of the two, though
if the watch is serviced on a regular basis, you are unlikely to notice any
difference.
Both movements, in all iterations, have been awarded COSC certification, since late 1999.
Which should you choose?
This is of course up to you, but my personal favourite is still
the standard old Navitimer model. It is in my opinion the best looking of
them all, especially in the new Tri Compax version, now that the old HW Cosmonaute
has been discontinued. It is the ‘essential’ Navitimer. All others are copies,
not imposters, but not quite the real thing. If you can find a new old stock
tricompax, manual wind, non date Lemania model, I still think it is the best
buy of all.
The Heritage, I dislike because of it’s integral case, which means it can’t
be worn on a strap, so it would never be a choice. The Cosmonaute, too, because
it is a mere shadow of it’s former self. Special editions, which in my opinion
appear too often these days, can often become, with age, difficult to sell,
and the QP is just too complicated, and expensive to be regarded as a wrist
cronograph for serios everyday wear.
There you have it, my thoughts, and recommendations. My favourite thaen, is
the old Navitimer, black dial, with brown Croc strap, and when available,
with arabics. A true classic, and the definitive Navitimer. Buy one…. you’ll
never regret it!
Cheers,
Doug
After this very complete article , I will try to give you my personnal opinion on the topic
First thing to know before buying a Navitimer is to know if you want to go for a vintage watch or and "recent" watch
If your choice focus on recent watch, my recommandation will go for a "Classic" Navitimer : Black dials, white subdials … and I also recommand the Tricompax configutation . I would on my side recommand you the "50th anniversary edition" it is equipped with the ETA 2892A2, and have the same dial has the vintage Navitimers including the "two planes" logo : this is the watch I have choose for the first page of the Website, my other favourite is the brand new model , black with arabics (available in spring 2003 but you can see it in the latest Chronolog)
Theses two watches are brand new and might be difficult to find pre-owned , but you will be able to find VERY easely Navitimers equipped with the Valjoux 7750 and the subdials at 12,9 and 6 : it is a VERY nice watch even if a majority of person prefer the "tricompax" configutation.
Bare in mind that even if modern navitimers are claimed waterproof at 30 meters you should not expose them to more than a shower ….
If you want something with more history and you have choose to buy a vintage Navitimer , you will see in this site that the Navitimer had several evolutions since the creation in 1952 …. so which one to choose ?
As all lover of the Navitimer I would of course recommand a 806, my personnal taste would go for a generation II or III (white subdials) main problem with this watch is of course a HI price : it is VERY collectible . The cosmonaute version of this watch is also VERY desirable (keep in mind that reading time on a 24 hour dial might be a little bit confusting : if you intend to wear this watch prefer a 12 hour dial)
But do not forget the other vintages ! I would personnaly pass on quartz version (be carefull Breitling do not service vintage quartz watches any more …) but I would like to share with you a passion for the Chronomatic … this wtach is not loved by many (refer to Doug article !) it might take time to be used to … but let me tell you it is a pure marvel ! : equipped with the very FIRST automatic Chronograph (YES before the famous El Primero !) the movement is a jewel. The size of the watch is VERY impressive with 48 mm. for me it is one of the most distinctive Navitimer, even if far from the "classic" design standards of the Navitimer familly : one of my favourite vintage watch . If you can stand with nicknames like "frying pan" or "pizza" about your watch, if you like BIG watches the Chronomatic could be an option ! look to the various galleries of this site to see pics … and the best thing would be to see one in real ! The good point is the very reasonable price : 50% less than a 806
Bare in mind that 806 are absolutely NOT waterproof ! even washing your hands will need you to remove it ! Chronomatic use to be waterproof but my advise would be : act like if it was not !